Trick Out Your Dish! The Complete Guide to Starlink Accessories and Mounts
If you're thinking about signing up for Starlink satellite internet, you might reasonably think that the company will provide you with everything you need to get the service up and running when you buy the required $599 starter kit. In it, you get a dish, a dish mount, a 75-foot cable, and a single Wi-Fi router. And for many users, that's enough to get internet service almost anywhere Starlink operates, and to beam the Wi-Fi signal throughout even a good-size house.
When I got my own Starlink kit, I also thought that I would be all set. But after setting up the dish and equipment, and in the course of doing my deep-dive review of the service, I realized that I couldn't leave my dish out in the yard, and running a cable through an open window wasn't the best option, either. For my home, I still needed to buy a cable routing kit and a pipe adapter mount, which let me set up my Starlink dish on the roof using an old Dish TV mount that was already there.
The specifics of your home will likely require similar considerations. Where do you want to mount your Starlink dish? How do you want to run the cables into the house? What do you need to get all of your devices connected, whether wired or over Wi-Fi? For these particular needs, you'll turn to the Starlink store, a members-only shop for Starlink customers that can be accessed through the Starlink website when you're signed into your Starlink account. Here you'll find official accessories, which fall under several categories: mounting hardware, cables and cabling accessories, networking gear, and even equipment for portability.
The problem is, if you're not already a Starlink customer but merely considering signing up, it's hard to know what accessories are even available, let alone what they're used for and which ones you might need. So we've put together this guide covering all of the accessories currently offered in the Starlink store. We'll give you tips for when each item might be useful, along with information about pricing and setup. (Note: We've provided shoppable links to each accessory, but know that you'll need to be signed in to your Starlink account to access them directly.)
To get Starlink internet in your home, you need a dish. New customers who select the Standard Kit will receive the Dish V4 and Router Gen 3. If you’ve already received Starlink or purchased a used system, you may have the older Dish V2 and Router Gen 2, which remain widely in use and require different accessories. Both sets of accessories are covered in this guide.
Because the majority of users still use the older Dish V2 and Gen 2 Router, we'll continue to list those accessory models first, with the equivalent Dish V4 and Gen 3 Router equipment listed second where relevant or as a standalone accessory when there is no V2 version. We will also note which accessories can be used for both equipment generations.
Once you get the dish, you need to mount it somewhere with a clear view of the sky. The setup process includes scanning the overhead area with your smartphone camera to identify any possible obstructions, and it's during this process that you may find yourself unable to get that clear skyward view.
If you need to elevate your Starlink dish, a number of mounting options are available to help. Whether you want to put your dish on your roof, on the side of your house, or even in the middle of a field, here are the accessories that let you do it.
For slanted rooftops, consider the Pivot Mount ($68). Because the Starlink dish mast is meant to stand straight up orf vertically, the Pivot Mount provides an adjustable connector that allows the dish to be set to the necessary angle no matter how steep the pitch of your roof happens to be.
The base of the pivot mount is screwed down onto the roofing material (a separate accessory is needed if you have metal flashing to contend with), and the mount comes with the necessary lag screws and sealing tape to prevent roof leaks that might be caused by drilling the required holes.
In a smart touch, the kit also comes with an over-the-shoulder carry bag for the Starlink dish to make it easier to carry the dish safely up a ladder.
If you're using the newer 2024 equipment, there's the Dish V4-compatible Standard Pivot Mount ($74), which fits the kickstand attachment bracket on the backside of the flatter dish. Most of the hardware is identical to the older version, and it comes with the same base and mast, lag screws, sealant tape, and cable routing clips. But instead of attaching to the integrated mast of the Dish V2, it uses a mast adapter that slots into the kickstand attachment bracket of the new dish.
If you have a roof with metal shingles, or you need to mount the dish to a wall with metal siding, you will also need to get the Flashing Mount ($93). It's an adapter for the Pivot Mount, made for use when the Pivot Mount can't be screwed into place due to the building materials involved.
Instead of simply drilling into the roof, the Flashing Mount's setup is a bit more involved. It requires you to cut away some of your roof using a provided template and a utility knife, pry up the surrounding shingles a bit, and then screw and caulk the mount into position. It's a more invasive process, but that's just the reality of some roofing materials.
Once it's all done, you can attach the Pivot Mount to the freshly installed Flashing Mount, and proceed to set up your rooftop Starlink dish. And, because the base of the pivot mount is the same for both old and new dish models, the same flashing mount works with the new Dish V4.
If a wall is your only choice for putting up your Starlink dish, then the Short Wall Mount ($60) is the option for you. This small mount goes up with just two screws and lets you put the dish at roof height without drilling through shingles.
Conversely, if you need to mount your dish on a wall but need the mounting arm to extend beyond eaves, gables, or other overhanging obstructions, there's the Long Wall Mount ($72). This 16.8-inch arm has the necessary mast mount and cable routing for use with the Starlink dish, and it's one of the easier-to-install mounts on this list.
There's only one Standard Wall Mount ($67) kit offered for the Dish V4, designed to accommodate a 4-inch overhang. An 18-inch mast height lets you raise the new flat dish above your roof edge, giving it a clear, unobstructed view of the sky and satellites overhead.
If you aren't mounting your Starlink dish on a building but still need to get your dish up above obstructions such as trees and shrubs, then the Ground Pole Mount ($75) is probably the solution you need. Designed for in-ground installation and using a simple two-piece design that lifts your dish five feet in the air, it's also potentially the most challenging DIY option of the bunch, requiring you to dig a hole and mix up some concrete to properly set the pole in the ground.
Because any additional mounting hardware would be used in addition to this pole, the Starlink Ground Pole Mount is also compatible with Dish V4.
If you already have an existing mount or pipe on your roof—my home had a Dish TV satellite mount left over by a previous owner—then the Pipe Adapter ($35) is the accessory you need. This is the simplest mounting option on the list, a metal cuff that slips over the existing pipe and tightens down with screws.
It serves up a perfectly sized Starlink mast mount on the other end. No new holes need to be drilled, making it a pretty stress-free option.
The kickstand bracket on the Dish V4 necessitates a redesigned mount for attaching the new dish to a pole. The new Standard Pipe Adapter ($38) does just that, letting you mount the unit on any pole that's between 1.25 and 2.5 inches in diameter.
Renters who can't drill holes for permanent mounting on a roof or wall may want to consider the no-drilling-required Starlink Ridgeline Mount ($300). It's considerably more expensive than most of the mounting options Starlink sells, but it's the one to choose if you want to avoid the possible expense of a roof repair caused by removing a permanent mount.
The ridgeline mount instead provides a weighted base that sits securely on the top ridge of a gable roof, straddling the peak and holding it in place with ballast weights. The flexible mount can handle both metal and shingle roofs (it's not recommended for clay tile roofs) and slope angles of 45 degrees or less.
Not all of your Starlink equipment lives outside. Your router and accompanying power supply also have mounting options, whether you want to put them out of the way on a wall or otherwise tucked out of sight. This is especially handy for mobile users in RVs or other vehicles since it's less practical to simply leave a router and power brick sitting on a shelf in a moving vehicle.
The first indoor mounting option is the Gen 3 Router Mount ($25), a specialized clip-in holder for the Wi-Fi 6 router. The mount can be easily screwed into a wall or onto a flat surface, like a shelf, with the included screws and wall anchors, giving you some flexibility in where the mount goes. Cable routing and retention is built into the mount, and the snap-on design lets you easily click the router into position and remove it again when you need to.
The second indoor option is the Standard Power Supply Mount ($24), which gives you the same clip-on mounting convenience, but for the accompanying power brick. Whether you're attaching it out of the way under a desk or just keeping the power adapter neatly mounted next to the router, the plastic bracket makes it much easier to manage the power and cabling for your wall-mounted router. Like the router mount, it comes with the necessary screws and wall anchors, but you'll need to supply your own power tools and drill bits.
Once that dish is properly positioned, you still need to pipe that internet connection into your home. The dish may stay outside, but the router doesn't, so cable routing will need to be addressed, unless you're fine with running a cable through an open window all winter. The older Dish V2 from 2022 uses a proprietary cable connector, while the newer Dish V4 (2024) uses a ruggedized version of the Ethernet cable and connectors. Interestingly enough, as the Starlink customer base has grown globally, the cable lengths have also changed slightly, with newer cables being sold in metric measurements of 15 and 45 meters.
Whether you need a new cable, a longer cable, or just the equipment to run that cable through a wall, here are the cable and cable routing products from the Starlink shop.
Did the dog chew up the cable that came with your Starlink installation kit? Did you mangle, sever, or otherwise damage that 75-footer? Well, Starlink's 75-Foot Replacement Cable ($55) is available in the shop, providing not only a flow of data to and from your Starlink dish, but power, too.
Note that this cable is identical to the 75-foot strand that comes standard with your Starlink dish, complete with its distinctly shaped ends for plugging into both the dish and the router. If you need additional length that your existing cable doesn't provide, you need the longer 150-foot version ($130). It, too, is complete with specially designed plug ends for both the dish and the router. If you want a longer cable to run from the dish to your house, this is the longest official option available.
For newer hardware, you actually need a different cable, since the Dish V4 and Gen 3 Router use RJ-45 connections. These aren't your everyday Ethernet cables, though. These are fully weatherized, from the heavy sheathing to the reinforced plug tips. You can get a Standard Starlink Cable 15m ($50) to replace the one that comes with your installation kit, or the longer Standard Starlink Cable 45m ($115) version, which gives you three times the reach.
Without professional installation, such as you might get with traditional cable or satellite service, setting up your Starlink equipment falls to you, the buyer. And if you're planning to set up your Starlink Wi-Fi router indoors, you'll need to run that cable into your home with a Cable Routing Kit ($32). Included in the kit is everything but a drill—you even get a 0.75-inch spade bit and a cable routing tool.
What's not included? Experience with routing cables. You might be able to YouTube your way through it, but if you have a friend who knows what they're doing, it's probably best to call them before you start drilling holes in your walls.
The standard kit is made with typical frame houses in mind, but it isn't suited to walls of masonry, concrete, or stucco. For these, you will need the Masonry Routing Kit ($46), which includes a spade bit and both 0.75-inch and 0.25-inch drill bits, along with the necessary cable anchors and sealant you'll need to properly install the cable without letting the weather in with it. As with the standard Cable Routing Kit, this is a DIY process, so read up on what you're doing, or phone a friend with experience before you start drilling.
Your internet speeds may be great, but the single Wi-Fi router that comes with your Starlink kit may not be enough for every device or room in your house. Check out these essential networking accessories, or read more in our guide to using your own router with Starlink.
If you have your dish situated and your router hooked up but still find yourself without a connection in some parts of your home, you may need a Starlink Gen 2 Mesh Wi-Fi Router ($100 per node).
Made to stretch the coverage area of the included Wi-Fi router, you can add up to three nodes, each one boosting the power and reach of your Starlink router's wireless signal.
If you want to cover a wider area, or get the improved speeds of Wi-Fi 6 for your local devices, the newer Gen 3 Mesh Router ($199) is the way to go. The new model boasts faster standards, a more informative status indicator light, and even built-in Ethernet ports for adding wired devices, like a printer or network attached storage (NAS).
If it's a wired connection you need, whether it's for connecting your own Wi-Fi router or mesh system, or just plugging in a wired printer or NAS device, then you need the Starlink Ethernet Adapter ($17), which links the dish connector cable and Starlink router. The Ethernet adapter provides a single wired port for connecting any wired device, and it can also be used with any connected Starlink mesh node.
If you're using the newer Gen 3 Router with Wi-Fi 6, there's no need for an Ethernet adapter, since the router has two additional RJ-45 ports built-in.
As new as fixed-address Starlink service is, there are even newer frontiers in satellite internet. With options for putting a Starlink dish on a boat or outside an RV, the service has gone portable, and it has the perfect accessory for connected travelers.
If you're one of the Starlink RV users using your dish for internet connectivity on the road, you'll want something to both protect the equipment and make it a little easier to transport, so you'll need the Starlink Travel Case ($175). This hard-shell case protects the older motor-actuated dish, and has room for all of the other equipment you need for your internet connection, including the router, the mount, and cables. As of now, Starlink doesn't have a similar kit for newer dish models.
Handles on the top and side let you carry the dish briefcase-style in either orientation, and backpack straps let you carry all of your gear on your back, should you need to.
Between the hard fabric-covered shell and the foam interior with shaped storage compartments for every item, it's a handy way to carry the Starlink equipment securely as you travel.
For more on how to get your Starlink internet service set up and running, check out our how-to guide. As for what type of speeds you can expect, check out our most recent in-depth performance testing.